Today there were light clouds and sun in the morning, and it was just a little warmer. I wanted to take advantage of the sun, but it went away almost as soon as I came out. On the plus side, it is warming up. I was still sad to have only gotten a few blue sky photos during the day, but such is life. You roll with the punches. Mayhaps I will explore the snowy lands again some day.

Speaking of snowy lands, I decided this was as good a day as any to make a quick trip down to the Basse-Ville, the lower town. I had one shop I was interested in going in and it appears my habit of missing it open is a permanent thing. It’s closed today and tomorrow, my last two days in Quebec. I did end up finding a few other shops that had some arty souvenirs and maybe some gifts – we will see. I was mostly noncommittal about what was for me and what was for others. Anyway, back to the snow, they have been busy beavers down there the past couple of days, there was barely a drop in the streets. Where piles of it as tall as me had stood, there was now scraped clean paving stones. They were even sweeping the roofs clean to prevent chutes de glace. As much as I understand their need to keep the paths clear for people, there was a very sad side of me when I saw it. No photos from lower town today. I’m sure it looks fabulous in other seasons (I’ve seen some fab Fall photos and paintings) but in dull winter, it’s the white snow and the warm lights that makes it beautiful for me. So, shopping and out it was for me. I doubt I’ll make it back down there again.

Back up to Haute-Ville for a bit more wandering and late lunch. A friend had totally recommended the crepes at Casse Crepe Breton multiple times, so I had to give them a whirl, but not before the pavement gave me a whirl. I begin to feel incredibly accident prone. It seems to be a rare city I don’t take a spill, bonus points for anywhere cold and icy. It was the ice that finally did me in. In a way, it felt good to finally get it done with and walk away from it. It happened so quickly I think a video of it would probably be freaking hilarious. I was just reaching a corner on the sidewalk and my left foot hit ice. I didn’t have time to think or even realize what was happening. It was ice and then I was looking at the world sideways. I don’t even remember hitting the ground. I guess all those layers that make me feel like Ralphie’s Little Brother in A Christmas Story are good for more than warmth! At that moment, I was more mortified than anything. There were already people heading toward me. I was off the ground before they got there! Nice of them, but I just wanted to move on so I could laugh about it later. Their reaction, though, is why I think a video would be funny. A few hours later, still not hurting anywhere and I could find nothing in my bag that was astray – kudos to my camera insert, everything was snugly in its place.

Anyway, I was a couple of blocks from lunch and was now a little ruffled and had gotten cold enough that the moment I walked into that warm restaurant, I could see nothing. My glasses were instant fog. Sigh… I stood there and waited. I’m not sure whether I’m glad it took so long for anyone to notice me to seat me or not. I hope that doesn’t make it sound like the service was bad. It was well after lunch but they were still busy with only a couple of tables open. I needed those moments to compose myself and defrost enough to see anyway. I’m so not a food critic. Everyone who knows me is well aware that I’m a picky eater (what most of them don’t know is how FAR I’ve come and how much I’ve added to my repertoire along the way). Anyway, take that caveat for what it is. That said, the recommendation was first rate. I had crepes for both meal and dessert. The meal was okay, warm and filling. Even though I had cheese and pepperoni, it reminded me quite warmly of a Cornish Pastie. However, it was the dessert that thrilled me. I had my crepe stuffed with strawberries and it came with a side of whipped cream with what I think was a little dash of cocoa on the top. Anyway, I savored that dessert. I didn’t want it to end, and if I had any room left, I would have tried another with a different filling. If you take my friend’s recommendation as well when you’re here, one thing to realize is that a crepe is not small. They asked if I wanted a side salad, but I’m glad I passed on it because the main dish alone would have been enough without dessert. With dessert, it was really too much, but I soldiered on because I wanted to finish that yummy dessert, darn it!

Anyway back to the hostel and a more mundane evening. There’s a less fun side of travel and for me high on that list is laundry. It’s definitely not exciting; well come to think of it, I’d rather laundry not be exciting actually!

Clean Clothes are Nice but nothing glamorous here

I had literally put this off about as long as I could. I had a few clean things left, but one item that was in zero supply was clean dry socks. That’s the rare positive about the past two days, no stepping in deep slush. It’s ice, all ice (as my fall bears out). So, my sock needs might have gone down, but the beginning of the week was harsh. I also had multiple pairs of crusty pants from the salt they use to clear the streets. If I was here longer, I’d look into those elastic pant guard things I see so many people wearing to protect their pants. It’s that or tall, tall boots.

Not my problem for now, no plans to set up shop here as nice as it is, but I would love to see Quebec in the autumn. Winter would require a far longer residence to photograph so that I didn’t feel pushed to go out in the cold when I’m not really feeling it! Anyway, laundry sorted and I settled in for the evening in my comfy warm-ups. No way am I dirtying up nice clean clothes outside tonight.

I have my latest in a chain of room-mates. I had thought maybe just maybe after the others left I might luck up and end up in the room alone tonight. It’s happened before when choosing smaller (ergo slightly more expensive) dorms, but it was not to be. And I can’t really complain. The first room-mate I only saw to speak to the morning he left (the day after I arrived). The next two were VERY quiet. I mean, I know I’m quiet and introverted but until the very end, I don’t think we’d exchanged more than hellos in passing. One was from France, and I’m still not sure where the other was from. I had thought for awhile language barrier but I don’t think so anymore, I think they were just that quiet. I believe the one tonight, who is from Mexico, will be here until after I leave, but he’s much more talkative at least.  So, as I said, no complaints about the hostel or my room-mates thus far and knock wood!

Not sure what I’m putting on tomorrow’s agenda. I’m not especially feeling any more of the museums. No offense to Quebec, just not in the mood. I’d consider going to see the rest of the art museum and I’d kind of like to see those snowy fields (Fields of Abraham) adjacent to it again if it were warm enough to actually photograph it rather than hurry through it. So, much will probably rely on the weather.

I woke up at once rested but still slow moving and I managed to finally get out of the hostel over an hour later. I did have the latest in my experiences with bad magnetic room keys. I have always had issues with them stopping working (how common is that??), but this has been a personal best. Every day, I’ve had to get multiple new keys. This morning, I hiked down to the shower and when I got back from it, the key no longer worked… sigh… Luckily mama didn’t raise no fool. I was dressed, but I wasn’t entirely slapped together yet… oh well… I’m sure they’ve seen worse in the morning. The desk staff recognize me now and know my room number. This may be a long week for them!

Lunch/breakfast/whatever turned out to be a McPoulet. For those who didn’t take high school french, Poulet is chicken.  So, yes, I had a McChicken. In my defense (and I have thin defense for food-related offense), there was hardly anything open. The Chez Ashton I wanted to try again was closed. There were lines anywhere that was open (including McDonalds). Not an auspicious first meal, but it did the trick. Oddly my first McChicken. Back home if I wanted a chicken sandwich, I would never have thought to try McDonalds… go figure…

Finishing there I decided for what I thought would be a leisurely stroll. I wanted to finally walk down to the old city. I went the least direct route by Notre Dame de Quebec. I should have known this wasn’t the recommended route when street signs quit telling me how to get there but luckily there were others going that route and we eventually stumbled into the old city. The climb up/down by the Chateau Frontenac is definitely more direct if steeper.

iPhone Snap - Old City View of Chateau Frontenac

Anyway Old Quebec is truly charming. A lot of the shops were closed today, but we’ll consider this a scouting mission as I also only had my point and shoot camera with me. I’ll be back before the week is out. Wow! Up until today, I had thought the city up here on the hill within the old city walls was very Dickensian, but now that I’ve seen the old city below, it’s far more so that fairy tale sort of city, particularly in winter.

The winter is pretty… but oh my… One pair of my shoes finally proved not up to the task. Up here, the sidewalks are not nearly so slushy, but down there, I finally stepped into one slush puddle too many. I swear I heard my shoe sigh and say, “sorry” just before the damp crept in. It still wasn’t immediate. At first my foot just felt mildly damp and I kept going. Forty minutes later, I was walking in my own personal puddle with each step. My other shoes are a bit better protection (I think) but I was trying to alternate days and let the outside of that pair dry a bit. I’ll definitely take them into the old city next time so I have a better shot of coming out dry.

At any rate, I chose to take this as an excuse to relax and be warm. I’m catching up on a mountain of emails, not to mention blogging. I’m not even sure I can convince myself to more than walk to the market next door for something for dinner. I’m not (yet) that hungry and baby it’s cold outside…

When you’re a slacker about packing and then repack over and over like I did night before last, you forget something. The thing is I think you inevitably forget some things. The trick is not to forget anything crucial. So, far I’ve got a tiny list of things. I realized last night as I stepped out of the warm airport that I didn’t have a scarf… I don’t think I’ve laid eyes on it since I left Paris in January of 2010. No need for one at home and certainly none for last years warm new year in Mexico. So, if I had have remembered, that’s another 30 minutes or more that I’d have spent turning everything over trying to find it. Instead, I’ll have a useful souvenir from Quebec and one that I can wear rather than having to jam in that bag when I leave. Ha! Score! Now, I won’t tell you how long I shopped for a scarf, but I will say that in the end it turned out to be in one of the first shops I looked in. I wouldn’t say “one of the first shops” if there hadn’t been many after it before I went back. I’m not decisive about clothing purchases. I did briefly see one I liked better but, uhm… $90 for a scarf I’m unlikely to get much use out of is a bit much for a souvenir. Back to the comparably reasonably priced shop that had a sale going…

I’m afraid I’ve a dearth of useful information to share about Quebec so far. There are plenty of museums and such, but I’ve mostly been sloshing around the streets getting my bearings and enjoying the snowy weather (you can only say that if you don’t live with snow every winter of your life, I suspect). I did briefly check out some of the old fortifications and sections of the walls (I’m within the only walled city north of  Mexico it’s a given I had to go see them). I also walked along a particularly picturesque street earlier At the end of it, the wind was particularly cold and gusting. I happened to turn around and realized I was at the emblematic Chateau Frontenac. I think there are better views of it from elsewhere in the city so no photos. Well, that’s one excuse as I also thought my fingers would freeze off in that wind.  To give you an idea of how cold it was on that prominent spot atop the hill, I ducked into the Chateau’s shopping arcade and nearly ordered a hot chocolate. I’m not a huge chocolate fan and I rarely, rarely, rarely have warm beverages but it sounded so good at that moment… Then I smelled coffee, came to my senses and had an orange juice. It’s never been a smell that enticed me obviously and turned me off my brief hot chocolate idea. A few more days in the cold, though and who knows!

Picturesque Street near the Chateau Frontenac - iPhone Photo

You know you’re no longer in the south when:

• It’s fairly common for cars to have ski racks on them;
• You commonly encounter people carrying ice skates.
• City parks have hockey rinks of the same genre as basketball courts back home.
• Outdoor ice skating comes complete with a Zamboni.
• Slush not only becomes a four letter word, it has nothing to do with funds.

No idea at all what I’m doing for New Years. The actual moment the clock strikes has never been a huge deal to me, but I’m sure something will turn up. I came in as the snow had reached a point I no longer felt completely safe with my camera in it and it felt quite late. Turns out it was not even 4pm yet! I have a lot of time to kill before midnight.